Viva Vallerta

HUGGING THE SHORES of the Bay of Banderas on the Mexican Riviera, Puerto Vallarta evolved from a small fishing village to an international port of call for tourist-crammed cruise liners. Long gone are the 19th-century salty dog fishermen, replaced today by 19-year-old spring breakers. Still, it’s not all oversized sombreros and cervezas; authentic Mexico is easy to find——and to love.

A gaggle of graduating high school kids on their senior trip chatter excitedly as our plane touches down at Puerto Vallarta International Airport. I share their excitement: I can’t wait to hit the renowned beaches.

But first, there’s the hour-long drive north along winding Route 200 to the village of San Pancho, known for its fishing and surf. The paved road ends at our turnoff, the first indication San Pancho offers visitors a departure from contemporary life. Our car rumbles along the dirt road, passing caballeros on horseback, storefronts announcing their wares in colorful hand-painted letters and barefoot schoolchildren kicking a soccer ball through dusty avenues. Mariachi music wafts through the muggy air. The quaint fishing village captures the authenticity and slow pace of life in Puerto Vallarta before its development into a major tourist destination.

We dodge countless stray dogs that linger around taco stands on our way to the private beachfront sanctuary of Paraiso Escondido. Furnished in traditional Mexican décor, each of the four casitas includes an open-air kitchen beneath a palapa, a large canopy of palm fronds. Lush, verdant plant life and the sound of crashing waves imbue the property with a steamy tropical vibe.

After the long-awaited dip in the sapphire-blue surf, just steps outside our front door, we’re winding our way through town by foot in search of dinner. Locals greet us warmly at each groceria, shop and gallery we poke our heads into. They tell us the place to eat is La Ola Rica. Owners Triny and Gloria serve up some of the best traditional fare in the region. Killer Margaritas, too. But my favorite discovery is the menchilada: Mexican beer is poured into an ice-cold, salt-rimmed glass with lime juice in the bottom. An optional ingredient, but strongly recommended: a little sand between your toes.

I get plenty of sand on my toes——and elsewhere——the following day during a surf lesson in Punta Mita, on the northernmost tip of the Bay of Banderas. I meet my Mexican guide, Ivan, at a modest surf shack in town. We walk a couple of blocks to the shore, where we climb aboard a small boat and motor to a slow, rolling reef break well-suited for our longboards. There are nearly a dozen of us——mostly gringos——vying for the same waves. After an hour of paddling and riding waves, I’m ready to relax back at our new digs, the ultra-luxurious and secluded Four Seasons Punta Mita.

SITTING ON 1,500 ACRES OF COASTAL PENINSULA, the resort feels like my own private retreat. A narrow, two-lane road cuts a path through thick brush for the couple of miles from the front gate to the hotel lobby (slow to a crawl, or you’ll miss the discreet entry altogether). The property blends harmoniously with the land. From the indigenous-inspired architecture and landscaping to the cultural activities offered through guest services, there’s a clear appreciation for the people and history of this region, where the native Huichol culture dates back 500 years.

From my first step on the property, the Four Seasons signature first-class service is apparent in every interaction with staff. An attendant carrying a tray offers me a glass of chilled juice and a cool hand towel as I enter the lobby (an airy, elegantly decorated palapa with a stunning panoramic view of the Pacific). Another example of the “they’ve thought of everything” service occurs later: When I arrive for a horseback tour of Punta Mita wearing flip-flops, the concierge disappears for a moment, returning with a pair of Nike sneakers in my size, along with brand-new socks.

A golf cart pulls up to take us to our casita, furnished with upscale Mexican décor and outfitted with every modern amenity. Sliding glass doors lead to a private terrace with an ocean view. There’s little time to savor the view, though; I’m off to the resort’s decadent Apuane Spa for its newest treatment, a cactus massage. The spa offers a variety of therapeutic treatments that utilize native plants and minerals. The therapist moves the cactus——sans needles——with pressure over my back, using a tequila-sage oil to relax every muscle. I’ve never enjoyed tequila more——and without the unforgiving hangover.

Completing our out-and-back tour of the Bay of Banderas coastline, our last stop is in the heart of downtown Puerto Vallarta, at the Hacienda San Angel boutique hotel. There’s no finer showpiece of the region’s Old World charm. Ten elegant suites, designed in the style of Mexican colonial architecture, house turn-of-the-century antiques and original art (all selected by owner Janice Chatterton).

A courtyard, brimming with terraced gardens, tropical plants, flowers, trickling fountains and statues of angels and saints, connects the four private villas and creates a modern-day Eden. Though I feel worlds away from the downtown fray, a five-minute stroll from the front door down cobblestone streets deposits me in a maze of restaurants (the variety of fine-dining options was a tasty surprise), bars, clubs, boutiques and galleries.

But I much prefer the stunning bird’s-eye view of the city and bay from the hotel, where live mariachi music drowns out the faint din of partying kids in the streets below.

If You Go

Paraiso Escondido casitas are $115-$140 per night ($750- $925 per week). For reservations, call 760-815-2266 or go to sanpanchomexico.com. Rates at Four Seasons Punta Mita vary seasonally; book June through September to secure the lowest rates (ranging from $325 per night for a casita room with a garden view to $6,595 for a five-bedroom suite). Rates at Hacienda San Angel start at $250 per night and go to $495. Low-season (summer) rates range $200-$375 per night; a three-night minimum stay is required during the summer and winter seasons. More info: 011-52-322-222-2692 or haciendasanangel.com.

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