Appealing Acapulco

YOU’RE A FIRST-TIMER in Acapulco, a world-class destination boasting a treasure trove of attractions. How do you make the most of a short visit?

Well, first visit historical Fort San Diego. Then plan short jaunts to the nearby mountains to see ancient petroglyphs and a botanical garden. Then . . .

Okay, okay, I’m kidding——kinda. Acapulco, magnificently wrapped around two bays, is a prime tourist destination because of its climate, scenery and party ambience. But it offers much more. Once Mexico’s mecca for the world’s rich——with year-round highs in the 80s or low 90s (even in the May-October rainy season)——Acapulco now faces competition from hotspots like Cancún, Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta. So Acapulco broadened its appeal. Tourists on all sorts of budgets and quests can choose activity or leisure in the city’s three main zones——the historic downtown, adjacent Golden and luxury Diamond.

You have to see the famous cliff divers. Join the clusters of watchers on nearby hotel balconies and viewing platforms——or if you have some pesos to burn, hop onto one of the boats and yachts that pull up close around diving times. From either perspective, the 136-foot dives are impressive. Having once jumped——not dived——from a 10-meter platform at an Olympic pool, I could appreciate the thrill of the height. What I hadn’t considered is how far out the divers must leap to avoid the perilous rocks at the cliff base. At night, the divers dazzle even more by leaping with lit torches. And the team is no longer exclusively male; it now includes a 13-year-old girl.

Naturally, you’ll want to see what makes Acapulco gold, so join the nighttime throngs parading down La Costera, the city’s version of the Las Vegas Strip, teeming with discos, bars and 24-hour-a-day bungee jumping. Sometimes it seems as if a substantial portion of Acapulco’s 1.5 million residents are here, supplemented on weekends by hundreds of fun-seekers who’ve driven the 230 miles from Mexico City.

Several bars boast barra abierta, meaning you pay one fee and drink all you want, a scary prospect considering many stay open until 6 a.m. One spectator-friendly establishment goes karaoke one better——the servers and customers are encouraged to dance, in sync, on the bar.

Daytime walking downtown doesn’t swing to the same beat, but it does provide its own rhythms. Acapulco’s zócalo, or town square, is Plaza Alvarez, a tree-ringed area perfect for people-watching and escaping the hubbub of the nearby markets, shops and food stands. From there, you can spot the distinctive onion-shaped domes of the Catedral Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, built in 1930 for a movie set and now a prominent Roman Catholic cathedral.

Movies and their stars have played a major role in Acapulco’s ascendancy, so check out the celebrated Los Flamingos Hotel, decorated with photos of the many celebrities who’ve stayed, partied and even married here. You can visit the home built for Johnny Weissmuller, who fell in love with the city while on location for his Tarzan “jungle” scenes. Many of those were filmed in a nearby mangrove bog, which you can zip through, wet and wild, in a jet boat.

Water figures prominently in activities——swimming, fishing, water skiing, snorkeling, parasailing and such. For landlubbers, particularly in the lush Diamond zone, excellent golf courses and tennis courts abound. And for that ever-popular activity——eating——Acapulco teems with epicurean restaurants. One that ranks with any in the world for romantic dining is El Olvido, featuring superb Mediterranean cuisine enhanced by a beautiful alfresco view of the city and bay. And the seafood and see-views are both delightful at the tables of La Cabaña de Caleta, in the sand about 4 meters from water's edge.

But don’t get so wrapped in the present that you ignore the past. Do go to Fort San Diego, shaped like a five-pointed star (locals call it Mexico’s Pentagon) and built in 1617 to protect the valuable harbor, which was the continent’s gateway to Asia in the 17th and 18th centuries. The fort’s construction is fascinating in itself, and it houses Acapulco’s Historical Museum, replete with documents and artifacts collected throughout the city’s estimable existence.

And then there are those petroglyphs. If you’re at all interested in ancient history——as well as some breathtaking vistas——climb to see some 20 painted figures offering depictions of how the inhabitants prayed and partied circa 800 B.C. As a bonus, the trek justifies skipping that day’s visit to the fitness center.

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If You Go
No airline flies directly from San Diego to Acapulco, so you’ll have to route yourself through at least one other city. There are direct flights from Tijuana, but they leave around 1 a.m. Acapulco information can be obtained from visitacapulco.com.mx.

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